Malabar: “Atmospheric ambience by the swimming pool and exquisite haute-cuisine”
An awarded chef, thrives, at the amiable summer restaurant of the Margi Hotel in the area of Vouliagmeni.
The coastal suburbs in the south of Athens, ranging from that of Palaio Faliro to that of Vouliagmeni, do not count, unfortunately, a great number of restaurants offering haute-cuisine. Places that will delight us with their creative dishes are counted in the fingers of one hand and among them we list the summer restaurant hosted at The Margi Hotel. Most of us are aware of Malabar, and we have possibly indulged in a long cocktail session by its dreamy swimming pool and in the comfortable sofas with the large pillows. In case you have not yet experienced its cuisine and its superb art de la table, then now is the best time as ever to do so. Sea views may be absent but - in this case - it is worthy to focus on the sensational dishes offered and the atmospheric ambience as a whole.
Malabar’s strong asset is, most definitely, its chef Mr. Panayiotis Yiakalis with a long presence in top restaurants, such as Spondi and a respectable work experience abroad. Having thrived in The Margi’s winter restaurant Baku, he continues at Malabar for the summer season full of positive comments and brilliant prospects. The menu is devoted to international cuisine with a subtle representation of Mediterranean Greek dishes too. Among the appetizers, I really enjoyed the simplistic potato salad with boiled eggs, tomato confit and a touch of mayonnaise. A combination of ingredients with a really balanced outcome and a very nice aftertaste. I equally enjoyed the sea bass carpaccio topped with sea urchin eggs, while the delicious tartar of amberjack delighted me as it was highlighted by green pepper.
Among the main dishes, the Rib Eye of Angus beef was expected to be a good dish with a successful béarnaise. In addition, the chicken with a crust of prosciutto, presented me with a delight through its «exotic» touch of maki styled melon skin and basmati rice. Fairly innovative. As far as the fish dishes are concerned, the cod misses the point a little bit due to the absence of herbs and spices. In the deserts section, I found the chocolate cube with the tea scented ice-cream an absolutely pleasurous experience and I also tried the ‘ekmek’ which was, however, poor on the syrup. All in all and without any doubt, the restaurant at Malabar constitutes a good suggestion. And its most important asset is its chef, who is more than capable to upgrade the level at even higher grounds. In conclusion, if you are heading south and dining exquisitely is your priority, then you must make a note of Malabar in your agenda.
Full course dinner: 35-50€ / person, excluding wine
Malabar: 11,Letous street, Vouliagmeni area (The Margi Hotel). For reservations dial 0030 210 8929160. Also open at luncheon.